One evening while in Lisbon, Ryan and I took Bill and Susie to the Graça neighborhood, the first place we lived when the pandemic began. We crammed onto tram 28 and set off for an evening adventure. The tram car jerked, screeched, and shifted as we climbed up the hill, causing us to bump into other passengers and each other as we gazed out the windows. I felt the Portuguese breeze flowing through the car as we flew through boisterous streets filled with music and many, many wandering tourists. The Baixa blew by in a blur, then Sé cathedral, the panoramic park with the beautiful bougainvillea, and the stop for the Santa Clara market (one of our favorite antique/flea markets). We stayed on as the tram continued up the hill, saving our legs from the steep and sweaty climb. 

We got off in the heart of Graça and headed towards the Miradouro da Graça. After jockeying for seats along the viewpoint, we opened the wine and non-alcoholic beer bottles we brought along for a sunset cheers (a true Nee family tradition). We also opened a gigantic family-size plastic jar of Lupini beans for a salty snack. The air was warm and the crowd much livelier than when Ryan and I sat in the same spot in 2020. Waiters at kiosks served ruby-red port and gleaming glasses of Sagres beer to throngs of visitors out enjoying the ambience, comfortably nestled behind the Church of Our Lady of Grace with a view of the São George Castle, 25 de April bridge, and entire city.

After finishing our little happy hour, we continued through Graça, showing Bill and Susie some of our favorite spots around the neighborhood, stopping by the doorstep of the tiny studio apartment where we spent the first 3-month lock down. After a quick photo, we continued uphill to the next viewpoint, pausing to take in the shifted view of the city from a new perspective. 

We walked a bit further to have dinner at Estamine, a one-room, two-table restaurant that Ryan and I ate when Lisbon opened up a bit during the pandemic. We visited with the owners Joyce and Luis as they cooked, the kitchen within a few feet of our table. Being back in their little restaurant felt so cozy, like visiting a distant relative who you love but don’t get to see very often. 

After a delicious dinner, we headed back to the tram stop. It was now dark, and we were all tired from a long day out in the city. When the tram arrived this time, we were all able to get seats since it wasn’t packed to the gills with people. The air was cool as we glided down the hill back towards downtown. The city had taken on a different mood, and the narrow sidewalks were mostly empty along the track.